Overlooked & Undervalued: Exploring Chilean Wine
Written by Andrea Morris
For the first several years of my career, I, like many in the fine dining side of the wine industry, completely ignored Chilean wine.
I thought it was just a sea of mass-produced Cabernet and Carmenere, somehow simultaneously over-and-underripe and out of balance. Then one day I found myself tasked with creating a wine list to complement a Chilean chef’s 14-course menu. Not one to half-ass anything (I was the kid who kept doing homework after the AP exam was over), I called up all of my sales reps and tasted pretty much every Chilean wine I could get my hands on. The more I tried, the more I realized how unfairly I had overgeneralized the country.
Chile’s wine-growing areas span over 1,000 miles of coastline, from the Northern Atacama desert — an area so dry and otherworldly that it has been used to film movies taking place on the surface of the moon — down to the Southern area of Itata — where the climate feels more like the Pacific Northwest — plus the warm Mediterranean climate surrounding Santiago — where most of the large wineries churn out rivers of bold reds. This variety of climates, along with a growing number of small, boundary-pushing winemakers, adds up to a wide variety of grapes and styles coming out of a country whose wine reputation is ready for a refresh.
I now think of Chilean wine as a rummage sale of sorts: there is a ton of inexpensive, mass-produced wine that is not worth your time, but with some careful searching you can uncover some delicious, unique, terroir-driven bottles at a crazy-good value.
The Coastal North
I quickly became enthralled by the crisp whites from the coastal Casablanca and San Antonio Valleys, which are in the hot North but are located so close to the ocean that they’re actually quite chilly. Cold climate equals high acid — zippy white wines and savory, lower alcohol reds, which are exactly the sorts of styles that I love for being food-friendly and refreshing.
Look out for Villard’s white Burgundy-esque Chardonnay that feels fancy and will go with whatever you want to be eating right now.
Central
If you are hankering for a big red, I’d like to direct your attention to Carignan from the Maule. It’s spicy, structured, and has a bit of a Tuscan vibe, making it perfect to go with anything off the grill or pizza. Some of the best examples are labeled as “VIGNO”, a special designation used by a group of winegrowers for their top Carignan bottlings using super old vines that are unirrigated and own-rooted. Why do we care about that? I’ll write about it soon!
Two of my favorite producers from this region are Garage Wine Company and De Martino. If you see either of their bottles, grab ‘em.
The Cool South
My next loves are Pais and Cinsault from Itata in the South. Juicy, gravelly and light on their feet, these two grapes, alone or blended together, are pure joy. They hit right at the nexus of “easy drinking” and “lots to think about,” meaning that they don’t cry out for attention while you sip, but if you take a minute to give your glass a good swirl and sniff you’ll be treated to an unfolding of different aromas and flavors that will draw you in.
I’ll drink anything made by Pedro Parra or Leonardo Erazo. Leonardo Erazo also makes a skin-contact Muscat called ‘La Ruptura’ that is one of the most exciting wines I’ve ever had — savory, smoky, floral, dry — please just try it!
Here Are My Four Tips For Buying Chilean Wine:
Check the label to see who the importer is. Chances are that you’ll like the other wines by the same importer. Keep an eye out for Brazos Wine Imports & RIPE Wine Imports!
Check to see if the wine you’re selecting has a MOVI logo on the label. This seal is used by a group of producers dedicated to small production and wines full of character.
Find a wine shop with knowledgeable staff members. They can help you find a great bottle based on wines you like from anywhere in the world.
Just have fun! These are some of the greatest values in wine, so the pressure is low and the rewards are high.