Ain’t No Mountain High Enough: Exploring the Treasures of Alpine Wines

Written by Spencer Fox

Illustrated by Nathan Bodenstein

While the Alps have become the de facto winter vacation spot for A-listers, they were once a hotbed of poverty with little to no international cultural influence. Despite this, wine production has been a pillar of most Alpine communities for close to 2,500 years. Given the lack of infrastructure and economic resources, almost all of the wine being produced was poured directly into the glasses of locals, and the thought of exporting it to other countries was almost unheard of.

The fact that any wine comes out of the Alps is nothing short of an agricultural marvel. Subzero temperatures and brutal wind chills bring about the constant fear of frost, while frequent snowfall and rain threaten fungal diseases year-round. Then, there are the nearly vertical, nightmarish landscapes where farmers and winemakers are forced to plant their vines — in some regions, picking grapes is closer to an extreme sport than to a harvest. But throughout hundreds of years of cultivation, growers knew the potential of these mountainous regions. Air is significantly drier at high altitudes and the exposure from the sun is direct, both of which are great for ripening fruit and terrible for pests. Erratic fluctuations in temperature promote acidity and ensures freshness.

As winter tourism began to climb in popularity throughout the middle of the 20th century — ultimately culminating with the 1992 Winter Olympics in Savoie — the preconceived notions around Alpine wines began to change. Suddenly, these isolated regions were inundated with an outside world that wanted access to this newfound winter wonderland and every export they had to offer — wine chiefly among them. The Alpine economy received a financial influx that afforded vineyards access to tractors and resources to help increase both yield and quality of harvests. Today, the demand and production of Alpine wines are higher than ever before. We’re seeing producers expand on the tried and true formula of light reds and crisp white, but more and more, these regions are breaking the norm by producing age-worthy wines that defy and redefine expectations. Alpine wines have arrived, and they are far less of an oddity and more so the rising stars of the wine world, demanding more attention.  

Savoie, France

Pressed up against Switzerland and Lake Geneva is Savoie—a quiet Alpine region in southeastern France with only 2,200 hectares of vines that produce less than 1% of the country’s wine. However, throughout Savoie’s four appellations, there are over twenty mostly obscure and indigenous grape varietals. This has given way to an incredibly intricate, albeit modest wine culture that up until very recently was something of a well-kept secret amongst sommeliers, collectors and wine nerds at large. With French wine prices approaching comedic levels and climate change making the production of crisp, acid-driven wines more difficult than ever, Savoie has found itself with more public demand than ever before.

Historically, most of Savoie’s vineyards are small, rustic affairs tucked away in hilly pockets framed by vast mountain ranges that produce unfussy white wines. It wasn’t that producers weren’t interested in pushing the envelope, but more so that the terroir could only allow them so much. Frigid temperatures yielded low pH grapes with searing acidity and little ripeness to speak of. However, with the temperature on the rise over the past thirty-years, the fruit coming out of Savoie’s vineyards is a new beast entirely. Take, for example the bombastic wines of cult-favorite producer, Jean Yves Péron — his take on Jacquère sees a 15-day carbonic maceration that results in a finished product with all the classic trappings of the region’s humble beginnings but with additional texture and depth that are a far cry from the industrial, austere wines of old Savoie. Even outside of the buzzworthy producers, there are plenty of amazing budget-friendly cuvées like this lifted and spicy Mondeuse from Romain Chamiot and Blard et Fils’ aromatic blend of Jacquère and Altesse.

Valle D’Aosta, Italy

There is something distinctly Alpine that sets Valle D’Aosta apart from its northern counterparts in Alto Adige and Valtellina, both in its isolation and winemaking culture. This region is so removed from the rest of the country that it managed to mostly avoid the rampant spread of phylloxera that wiped out a large portion of Europe’s vineyards in the 19th century. This means that there are vines in Valle D’Aosta that are up to 175 years old and have allowed for the preservation of ancient indigenous varietals like Petit Rouge, Furmint, and Prie Blanc to be cultivated to their full extent. The depth and nuance that comes from vines planted on old rootstock cannot be understated or replicated. A handful of vineyards produce quality Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo but this treasure trove of obscure varietals put the region’s full potential on display. 

While the wines of Valle D’Aosta share much in common with those of Savoie, there is a certain rusticity and character that sets them apart from the clean Jacquères and buoyant Mondeuses. This Prie Blanc from Maison Vevey might strike a drinker as a slightly more refined Pouilly Fume or even a Petit Chablis with a touch more fruit. But it is this wine’s elegant finish and electric tension that distinguishes it as something far more idiosyncratic than any classic Old World varietal. The same can be said about Valle D’Aosta’s reds, in particular this blend of Petit Rouge, Furmint and Vien de Nus. That classic Alpine burst of bright cherries and tart cranberries practically jumps out of the glass and is immediately followed by a hefty dose of polished tannins. An earthy, anise forward finish closes out the show.

Valais, Switzerland

While Valle D’Aosta and Savoie are defined by their relative obscurity, the Valais is Switzerland’s leading region for wine, accounting for one third of all wine production in the country. A quick car ride away from Geneva, this region’s vineyards take up nineteen square miles of south facing slopes made up of rich granitic soils. Most wine growing operations in Valais implement strict regulations that vines must be farmed by hand, which is especially harrowing when taken into account just how steep these slopes are. Stone terraces are required on vineyard sites so that those working harvest have something to cling to as they pick the fruit. While Valais has been known to have the warmest summers in the country, winters can be downright brutal. Luckily, the Alpine mountain range protects vines from direct windchill and allows the grapes to benefit from the temperature fluctuations without any risk of frost or damage. 

Between the near perfect conditions for growth and the herculean amount of manpower that goes into the vineyards, the wines of Valais are among the most pristine to come out of the Alps. But therein lies the problem—less than 10% of the wine produced actually leaves the country. Since the 1990s, higher demand and a more focused push from importers have helped change the scarcity of Swiss wines in the United States but still, they are amongst the most highly sought after and difficult to find from the Alpine catalog—and that is a real shame. Anyone who has been able to track down a bottle of yellow fruited Fendant, like the “La Mourzière'“ from Conrad Caloz, knows that these wines are sought after for a reason.