Everything is Connected: An Interview with Gut Oggau
Written by Nathan Bodenstein
Photo provided by Gut Oggau
Gut Oggau, a name that resonates with natural wine lovers all over the world, carries with them a reputation for producing wines that are nothing short of amazing. It's a name that exemplifies the artistry and dedication of Stephanie and Eduard Tscheppe, who have raised the bar for biodiversity in viticulture.
In this interview with Stephanie and Eduard, we dive into their world. Over the years, their journey has taken them from biodynamic practices solely in the vineyard to embracing a holistic lifestyle of biodynamic principles. Their experiences have taught them that "everything is connected," and their story serves as a testament to the power of a harmonious coexistence with nature.
In an upcoming event at Rule of Thirds on Monday, October 16th, namely titled "Everything is Connected," we'll get to explore the deeper layers of their work, offering not just the pleasure of their wines but a profound message on biodiversity and the interconnectedness of life.
As you read on, you'll discover the wisdom, passion, and vision that have made Gut Oggau a transformative name in the world of natural wine.
————
"Gut Oggau is a project in the small town of Oggau in Burgenland, Austria, started by Eduard and Stephanie Tscheppe in 2007. Before starting the winery, Eduard made conventional wine with his father in Styria, and Stephanie’s family owned and operated the Michelin starred restaurant Taubenkobel. They painstakingly restored the 17th century winery that had been abandoned for 20 years, including its 200-year-old screw press. The vines’ 20-year period of neglect was fortunate, as this allowed for all pesticide and chemical treatments to be washed away. This let them begin working immediately on vines biodynamically, where they are now fully Demeter certified." - Jenny & François
Photo provided by Gut Oggau
How would you describe who Stephanie and Eduard were in 2007, and how have you both evolved since then?
In nature, there's a seven-year rhythm, and our physical bodies essentially regenerate every seven years. Physically, we’re certainly not the same, and in terms of our personalities, we have seen a lot of growth, just like our vineyards and the wisdom we were gifted by nature. This natural wisdom has contributed significantly to our growth. We certainly have a more in-depth understanding of many things compared to when we first started. On the same end, we've also learned to be more patient and grateful in many senses, both of which are essential when working with nature. I would say that we've moved closer to nature, and this connection has greatly improved our personal growth.
Is there anything that you reflect on and think, "I wish I had known back then what I know now"?
We wouldn't necessarily look back and say, "We wish we had known back then," because the beauty lies in the journey itself. Having all the answers from the start could make it quite uneventful, as it's the collection of experiences that truly makes life spicy. There's a quote from an 18th-century German writer who once said, "If God were to grant me a wish, I would not ask for the truth, but I would ask for the search for the truth," and this phrase encapsulates our perspective. Our daily learning curve and the experiences we gather are the beauty of the journey we're on. We began as blank pages in many ways, and we've been steadily gaining these experiences that have filled the pages.
What would some of the pages look like if there was a chapter on what you learned over the years that contributed to this lifestyle approach?
We've gained more wisdom over time, and that's the beauty of our journey. When we first started, biodynamics was primarily a farming method for us in our vineyards. It was our chosen approach to revive the soil and preserve the old vineyards. However, as we delved deeper into it, we quickly realized that biodynamics is not just a farming method; it's a holistic lifestyle approach. It prompted us to question various aspects of life, from how we would educate our children to how we would interact with the environment, both socially and naturally. It even extends to our business relationships and how we respect others, creating a complete circle within the farm. This is why the theme for our upcoming event is "Everything is Connected," because that's what we learned from nature. We must be aware that every action we take has far-reaching consequences. It goes beyond viticulture and winemaking; it's about life itself, and the daily choices each of us makes. In the end, it's these choices that truly matter.
Photo provided by Gut Oggau
It's essential to align with the idea of how to best coexist harmoniously with nature rather than fighting against it. This idea dates back to the ancient understanding of humans as an integral part of nature, which is quite obvious to us. However, in modern society, there has often been a perception of humans pitted against nature, as if they were separate entities. Yet, the truth is that we are inherently connected to it. In this context, every daily choice you make, the daily steps you take, whether you are consciously integrated with nature or not, begins with consumption. It encompasses what you choose to consume and how the products you use or consume are manufactured, be it food, wine, clothing, or furniture – everything plays a role.
It also extends to how you engage with your social surroundings, including the people you collaborate with in your work, business partners, and those who supply goods, such as even the distributors we work with to supply our wine. Establishing these relationships as partnerships is fundamental. Also, the way you approach the education of children and how you share your passion with others on a daily basis holds significance. Everyone has the capacity to make a meaningful difference in this regard.
What guidance or suggestions would you offer to individuals seeking to incorporate elements of your lifestyle into their daily routines?
One crucial aspect is learning to trust your instincts, as each one of us possesses these instincts, though often sleeping within us, dulled in many ways because of certain modern lifestyles. The disconnection from our surroundings, especially in city life, contributes to this numbness. Yet, when you start to trust your instincts, you swiftly discern what aligns with your well-being and benefits the environment.
Ultimately, it's about the role you decide to embrace. It's not a matter of right or wrong; but if you choose a certain role and go for it, you might also be quite at peace with that decision. It’s also not about pointing the finger and saying, “We are the good people and those are the bad people,” but if you choose a role to sustain or help regenerate Earth through consumption and/or farming, that’s a role you choose and it probably makes you feel good. Others may opt for different roles, choosing a role to continue as always or even embracing a less eco-friendly path, and that's a valid choice as well. The key is finding comfort in your chosen role and, by doing so, making an impact, while also spreading the word and inspiring others.
How would you describe Gut Oggau and what does it represent to you?
Gut Oggau, for us, is an integral part of our lives so we are kind of living our dreams. We find immense fulfillment in our daily life here, although with the occasional challenges that come with farming, as is the norm. But, overall, our purpose is to wake up early in the morning and go to bed late, and, at the end of the day, it always brings us happiness.
Gut Oggau, in its essence, is still evolving towards becoming an entirely unique farm. When embracing a biodynamic and holistic approach, you ultimately create a certain distinctive character in your farm. The farm, to a certain extent, resembles a living being with different organs – in our case, our vineyards, vegetable gardens, horses, sheep, animals, trees, and bushes all play distinct roles. The synergy of this individuality across the farm's diverse components generates a unique energy and spirit that deeply resonates with us.
Gut Oggau is a very energetic place with a very distinctive individuality as a farm, sometimes inspiring for others. We are very open-minded and, of course, we want people to visit, learn and share our experiences because the more people working and living this way, the better it is for the planet.
Photo provided by Gut Oggau
During this time of year, we see a lot of people traveling all over to work harvest. In past interviews, you’ve mentioned that harvest is the cherry on top but there’s still an entire cake that needs to be baked. Can you talk more about that?
In many ways, the other 10 months are more exciting. During these seasons, we prepare the dough and bake the cake, with the foundation being laid in late spring, which is also a very thrilling time for all the biodynamic work and cover crop development.
Every single day plays a crucial role in shaping what ultimately ends up in the bottle. Winter pruning is an essential task. However, during the winter, it's a bit more challenging to open the vineyard because it's highly weather-dependent as to when and whether we can prune.
The winter also serves as our traveling season. But as soon as vegetation begins to flourish upon our return, people from all over regularly visit throughout the seasons to experience, learn, and contribute.
Are there initiatives that you work on to assist other winemakers in converting to a more biodynamic farming practice?
Being members of the Demeter Association and holding biodynamic certification from Demeter helps foster an environment of open exchange in various aspects. Our approach is characterized by an open-minded perspective, which we actively contribute to. We believe that a key lesson applies to both consumers and growers: we cannot force anyone to embrace this approach. It's a matter of timing and personal inclination; either it resonates with you or it doesn't. Pushing this concept doesn't yield meaningful results, a tendency we observe in both consumers and producers.
Nowadays, people are realizing that the very conventionally farmed vineyards don't offer sustainable solutions for the future. They are increasingly recognizing that these conventional methods do not produce wines that are as beneficial as those crafted using a traditional, natural approach.
Photo provided by Gut Oggau
Why do you choose to use the term "climate fracture" instead of "climate change" to describe the current state of our climate?
The issue with the term "climate change" is actually suggesting that change is abnormal. Life is about change; there are no frozen stages in life. The climate has always experienced change, however, the current trajectory of this ever-changing climate is now disrupted or, perhaps more fittingly, broken. This suggests that it's heading in the wrong direction at the highest speed. Naturally, we're already witnessing its effects in our vineyards, and I'd say that any sensitive farmer and vintner worldwide is experiencing the same.
The question remains whether it can return to its previous state, which seems unlikely. However, the message behind this awareness is that even though the initial phase may seem harsh and a little bit frightening, just like mending a broken leg, it is possible to treat and heal. The message is that we have so many tools available, especially now in farming, despite being a source of climate issues in recent decades. On the flip side, there are equally numerous solutions within our grasp, and this is what fuels our hope.
With such high regenerative potential in nature, we must adopt the increasingly common "regenerative approach" in farming. This approach can significantly aid in drawing carbon back from the atmosphere and maintaining water balance, among other vital aspects. This perspective applies not only to farmers but also to consumers. By making wise choices and showing care in what you eat, inquiring about its source and farming practices, you can also make a meaningful contribution.
How does your approach to winemaking connect with your philosophy?
We work with these beautiful creatures known as vines, which give us fruit with a profound footprint of the sense of place – the terroir – and the sense of time, expressed through the vintage. The juice from these fruits collect and preserve so much of the energy drawn from the soil and the sun, and it can be preserved for years, bottled and shared across the world. That’s a certain blessed situation that we’re in.
Our wines have the power to bring joy, move people and make them feel good. This is attributable to our farming approach, which we refer to as "instinct farming," and our deep reconnection with nature. This obviously brings happiness to people and imparts a sense of well-being. The same principle holds true for food and many other aspects of life; it is essentially what sustains us and contributes to a joyful and fulfilling existence.
Photo provided by Gut Oggau
On the topic of reconnecting with nature, as individuals, it’s important to do that even if it's just going on a hike or spending time in an open field. There’s this feeling that comes from it that’s undeniably relaxing.
Exactly, and it demonstrates that this connection still resides within us, even if you spend most of your time in a massive city like New York. As you mentioned, the moment you step into a forest or an open field, it stirs something within you. This connection is an inherent part of us, and we should not deny it; rather, we should strengthen it in the future.
Similarly, we need to alter our approach to vineyards, which is why we open them up to wildlife instead of isolating them, as often occurs in monoculture agriculture. It's about coexistence, and the healthiest soil and plants emerge when we foster a harmonious coexistence of small creatures, microorganisms, insects, plants, animals, birds, and more. This is the natural habitat, and the more we move in this direction, the better.
Can you talk about the benefits of biodiversity in your vineyards?
There are numerous aspects to this, and, to us, much of it revolves around the energy level. Naturally, when you work with intense cover crops and introduce an array of flowering plants which bring insects and birds, it creates a totally different vibe to a vineyard. These cover crops not only help loosen soil for various root stocks but also nourish the soil's microorganisms, which, in turn, contribute to the accumulation of humus. Humus acts like a sponge, helping to retain water and essential nutrients in the soil, thereby enhancing the vineyard's resilience. This is just one of the many dimensions to consider.
We've also started introducing the use of horses in the vineyards. Their presence helps alleviate soil compression and injects an animalistic vitality into the plants. This dynamic interaction continuously bolsters the plants' resilience as well.
What are your main goals for the upcoming event at Rule of Thirds, and what key takeaways do you want guests to leave with?
We'd love for people to walk away and truly grasp the essence of the wines we’re showcasing and the profound significance of a healthy lifestyle and a conscious existence and understand how they can personally contribute because our planet Earth is undeniably precious. It's crucial to emphasize not just the hedonistic aspect of our work. While it's true that our wine brings pleasure and happiness to people, there exists a deeper layer with a profound message: the pleasure derived from it results from the care of the soil. This care not only brings personal satisfaction but also extends to providing pleasure to the microorganisms in the soil, the insects, and the overall biodiversity. This collective pleasure resonates with the well-being of the planet and, ultimately, helps us present a future model for farming and living.
The truth is, everybody can contribute and choose their own path. There are these beautiful lyrics from the Dire Straits song, "Romeo and Juliet," where it says: “I can't do everything, but I'll do anything for you.” This sentiment aligns perfectly with our mission. None of us, not you, can do everything, but we certainly can do everything within our capacity. It may occasionally require some sacrifices, but it is accompanied by immense pleasure and satisfaction, knowing that we are effecting a meaningful change.
Where To Find Gut Oggau
Bin Bin Sake is a unique neighborhood retail bottle shop, right next door to their restaurant, Rule of Thirds, on the border of Greenpoint and Williamsburg in Brooklyn. The shop specializes in sake, both nihonshu (Japanese sake) and jizake (locally produced sake). The shop also champions an extensive shochu selection, along with Japanese whisky plus other spirits, and an eclectic natural wine corner.