Everything You Need To Know About Karakterre New York, 2024
A guide to the Central & Eastern European wine fair you’ve been hearing so much buzz about.
Written by Eliza Dumais
Photography by Manu Grafenauer
You could be forgiven for expressing skepticism at the mention of any wine fair with no real estate reserved for Burgundy — nevermind Champagne, the Loire Valley, the list goes on. But, well, that’s the point. No shade to les francaises, but the country is not exactly starved for air time in the campus of wine discourse. And while Central and Eastern European wine are hardly niche markets these days, the fact remains that a bit more representation is all but essential. Hence: Karakterre.
At present, the fair operates annually out of both New York’s Rockefeller Center and Austria’s Esterhazy Castle in the winemaking region of Burgenland, with a focus on organic, biodynamic, and natural winemaking. And while yes, “low intervention” production is a hell of a nebulous term, the folks behind Karakterre are unafraid of that ambiguity (though stipulations mandate that there must be no more than 50 grams-per-liter of sulfur added to a wine to qualify).
For Marko Kovac, the fair’s founder, the premise of the project has little to do with defining the political delineations between “natural” categorizations, or comparing degrees of low-intervention extremity. Instead, it’s about building a community that champions great wine from growers committed to sustainable farming and living — largely in places where non-conventional wines are undervalued in their own local communities.
Born and raised in Zagreb, Croatia, Kovac has long been familiar with “natural” family-run wineries operating in his own periphery, as well as in the neighboring countries of Slovenia, Hungary, and Austria. His intentions with Karakterre, then, in part, were fueled by his desire to help smaller, low-intervention producers make a living via domestic and international markets while garnering larger prestige and, well, pointblank respect for the regions they hail from.
Photography by Manu Grafenauer
At its ancient origins (2011), Karakterre was a far more humble affair, masterminded by Kovac and a handful of winemakers on a promotional two-day tour of Zagreb (Croatia) and Ljubljana (Slovenia). As the event grew in size and importance, the whole affair relocated to Vienna in 2014 — then, in 2022, it arrived stateside at New York’s Rockefeller Center, bringing over 200 winemakers from over 10 countries together as part of the Karakterre community.
And community is not, we’ll add, a term we use as a stand-in for “patrons” or “participants.” The ethos of Karakterre is not merely limited to the fair, itself — it extends to a slew of workshops, creative programs, parties, events, and meet-ups in the weeks post and prior. And the energy, well — it’s specific. In so many ways, the standard wine fair has become so ubiquitous as to seem tedious; this limitless exercise in rote, repetitive tasting. Karakterre, however, exudes a certain lingering curiosity. The opposite of jadedness. An enthusiasm on the part of producers who rarely earn the opportunity to partake in events like this. An eagerness among importers and distributors to find new, talented, unrepresented makers. A rare, sincere capacity for marvel amongst patrons — and to be clear, no, this is not an industry-only event. Not in the slightest. In a city like New York, that brand of earnest, dogma-free exploration is not so easy to find.
Here’s what you need to know before attending Karakterre New York ‘24:
When: November 2nd, 11:30am - 6:00pm
Where: 45 Rockefeller Plaza (enter to the left of Le Rock)
How: Buy your tickets on the Karakterre website.
What: Tastings with 60 producers from 15 countries.
Will there be food?
Yes! Food vendors will be announced as the event date approaches.
What else do you need to know?
Glassware at the event will be provided by Zalto (gasp). That’s right: The Zalto Balance will make its global premiere this November as Karakterre's official glass. A deposit of $20 will be charged and refunded to your original means of payment when you return your glass before departing.
Is there a kick-off party?
Karakterre’s official opening soirée will take place at Brooklyn’s Marlow & Sons (81 Broadway) on November 1st at 5:00pm. After-party details TBA.
Are there other Karakterre spin-off events to know about?
Oh yes. Several. Look for a list of dinners, discussions, winemaker takeovers, and parties here.
Who will be there?
Here’s a roster of this year’s participating producers:
Austria
Andreas Zineal
Birgit Braunstein & Sons
Christian Tschida
Christoph Hoch
Claus Preisinger
Erich Machherndl
Fidesser*orbis
Franz Strohmeier
Fred Loimer
Fritz Salomon
Georg Schmelzer
Gut Oggau
Heinrich
Judith Beck
Johannes Trapl
Johannes Zillinger
Josef Totter
Julie Hoch
Karl Fritsch
Karl & Eva Schnabel
Katharina Gessl
Katrin Lautner
Kellerkünstler
Kobatl
Kolfok
Kollektiv Peternell
Koppitsch
Lichtenberger-Gonzalez
Leo Sommer
Lukas Strobl
Malinga
Markus Altenburger
Martin & Anna Arndorfer
Martin Obenaus
Matthias & Doris Hager
Meinklang
Neueheimat
Nibiru
Nittnaus
Ploder-Rosenberg
Rennersistas
Roland Tauss
Schödl Family
Schrammel 2.0
Sepp & Maria Muster
Thomas Straka
Von Der Vogelwaide
Wabi-Sabi
Weingut Esterhazy
Weingut Kögl
Weinschach
Weninger
Bulgaria
DNB
Zagreus
Croatia
Tomac
Negotians Vinarius
Czech Republic
Cidrerie Kliment
Krasna Hora
Milan Nestarec
MNLG
Rysak Collective
France
Achilee
Georgia
Chubini Wine Cellars
Gogushika
Marmenio
Natenadze
Two Sisters
Germany
Brand Bros
Dominik Held
Enderle & Moll
Glow Glow
Lukas Hammelmann
Moritz Kissinger
Niklas Rückrich
Piri Naturel
Wagner Von Wohlgemuthheim
Weingut Seckinger
Weingut Jus Naturae
Hungary
Boko David
Oliver Weingartner
Pager Matyas
Italy
Andrea Scovero
Cantina Martinelli
Feral Drinks
La Cattiva
Nikolas
Tenuta Saiano
Wilden Herbals
Slovakia
Slobodne Vinarstvo
Slovenia
Blazic
Cotar
Guerila
Kabaj
Svetlik
Serbia
Aleksandar Todorović
Basha Vino
Bikicki
Legende Rakija
Sagmeister
Vujic
Spain
Joan Rubio
Switzerland
O Faya Farm
United Kingdom
Ben Walgate
United States
Bow & Arrow
Common Wealth Crush Co.
Forthave Spirits
Les Vins De Barbichette
Plēb Urban Winery
Rose Hill Farms
Stagiaire Wine